It was worth coming to Ustica for this dish alone. Voluptuous, rank, rich. Slippery, oily, creamy velvet. Intensely fishy and vegetal, rock pool, iodine and decaying seaweed. The flavour is like a fog. It insinuates its way into every part of my mouth, every crevice and corner. Luxury of the senses.
Schiticchio, via Tre Mulini, Ustica