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I smelt them before I realized what they were. There were waves of eggy, smokey, boiled milk incense. Pistachio nuts. ‘Can I chat to you about pistachios?’ I asked the woman raking out the pistachios on sheets in the sun. … Continued
Posted from Address not found. It had been a turbulent day. When I arrived at Caltanissetta, I discovered that the note-book covering the last six weeks of travel had fallen from my back pocket somewhere between Canicatti and Caltanissetta. This … Continued
It was a scene unimaginable in the Caltanissetta of ten years ago, when I was last here. The Corso Umberto was full of kids playing table tennis, table football, chess, fencing, archery, weight lifting and chucking around a rugby ball … Continued
Posted from Lampedusa, Sicily, Italy. Said the banner outside the school library on Lampedusa. I first saw them at night in Porto Empedocle, disembarking from the ferry that runs every day between the port and Lampedusa, a column of black … Continued