San Domino. Eating Lotos

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Posted from Apulia, Italy. I lay on my back in the amethyst water of the Cala Matana on San Domino, looking up at the rim of scraggy sandstone rock just above sea level, at the billowing clouds of Aleppo pines … Continued

Tuna Time

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Posted from Roma, Lazio, Italy. I have made a vital discovery. There are only two ways to eat tuna – completely raw, as in a tartar, or completely cooked, as I ate it at the Osteria della Tonnara in Carloforte. … Continued

By the way

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Posted from San Leonardo, Sardinia, Italy. There were plates: of tiny rolls of crisp pancetta, with crunchy fried mushrooms; a plate of chunks of funghi porcini slippery in oil, with a whisper of vinegar and slivers of bitter radicchio; a … Continued

Trattoria da Bovere

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Posted from Siniscola, Sardinia, Italy. Unfortunately, it turned out that Il Talismeno was shut that day, but, said a young man inside, try that place and he pointed to the Trattoria da Bovere on the other side of the road. … Continued

Eating with Francesco

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Gabriella goes to attend to a friend who is very ill. Francesco proceeds to cook a dinner of great magnificence. He cooks as he speaks, with careful deliberation, attending to each detail with meticulous care. We start with home salted … Continued

Elban Dainties

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I don’t intend to put too many detailed recipes into this blog. I want to save them for later. But I will include tips, ideas and observations based on talking to or watching people cook. La Tonnina An Elban classic … Continued

Further Food for Fort

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There’s nothing remotely dainty, subtle or elegant about Livornesi food. Take today’s lunch at La Vecchia Ciurma, which describes itself as a Restaurant Wine Bar, quite funky as well as retro, as it turned out. The photo above is of … Continued