Ustica – Early morning swim

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. Donkeys greet the dawn. Some time later, 7am, just after, I rise and sneak off down the path that leads to the road that leads to a track that leads to the steps that lead to … Continued

Favignana – Fishy Business

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Posted from Favignana, Sicily, Italy. They seem to have been a jolly lot, the Florio family. Here they are lounging around their palatial mansion on Favignana, looking cheerful and rich. Here one Florio is caught ruffling the hair of another. … Continued

Ustica – Bottled Sunshine

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. A very long time ago my mother used to buy very special dried apricots at Christmas. I think they came from Australia. They were enormous, at least, if not three times larger than any other dried … Continued

Spaghetti con ricci

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. It was worth coming to Ustica for this dish alone. Voluptuous, rank, rich. Slippery, oily, creamy velvet. Intensely fishy and vegetal, rock pool, iodine and decaying seaweed. The flavour is like a fog. It insinuates its … Continued

The path to Palermo

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Posted from Palermo, Sicily, Italy. A real belter. 140 km give or take the odd km. Searing sunshine. Heat like a hammer. Nicoletta a true lady, class. I must have ridden the same route in the other direction in 2005, … Continued

Farewell Filicudi. Hello Capo d’Orlando

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Posted from Capo d'Orlando, Sicily, Italy. First of all, an apology. I haven’t posted any blogs for several days because of the mysterious workings of service providers. Or rather, non-workings. The internet is a marvel when it works according to … Continued

Elemental Alicudi

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Posted from Alicudi Porto, Sicily, Italy. Still further west of Filicudi is Alicudi. Filicudi is a humming dynamo by comparison with Alicudi. We went there for the day, and, on arrival, it was difficult to tell if there was life … Continued

Felicity in Filicudi

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. As I’ve travelled through the Aeolian Islands, I’ve had a feeling that I’m running before a tempest of tourism that crashes over each island as I leave it. The further west I get the strength of … Continued

Spiaggia Venezia, 1978, 2015

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I first came along this path To the black-pebbled, long-curving bay And to its sparkling, fish-rich waters, When it wound unconstrained between terraces Set with cactus, capers and olive trees. It was stone and dust, And smelt of freshly ground … Continued

Museo Civico, Lingua

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Posted from Lingua, Sicily, Italy. Lingua is the end of the road on Salina, literally. One of the islands 2 1/2 proper roads ends at the salt lake in Lingua. They used to make salt there once upon a time. … Continued

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