Lampedusa: The Last Frontier

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From a distance Lampedusa as if someone had left a tile of marble floating on the sea. This is the last outpost of Europe before you reach North Africa. Indeed, it’s far closer to Africa than it is to Europe, … Continued

Porto Empedocle: The Miracle of St Calogero

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Posted from Address not found. And then came the miracle of St Calogero. Porto Empedocle was a bit like a night club. By day tatty and depressing, by night it underwent a mysterious transformation, if not into a place of … Continued

Porto Empedocle: Crap Port

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Posted from Address not found. Inevitably on a trip like this there’s a certain amount of sitting around waiting for ferries to arrive and such. That’s no bad thing. It gives time to sit, think, dream and explore; time well … Continued

Pantelleria: Sweetness & Light

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. ‘Not a good year,’ said Michele glumly. ‘Why not?’ ‘Rain in August. Too much rain in August. It dilutes the concentration of the juice and many of the bunches lay on the wet ground, which is … Continued

Pantelleria: Walled Up

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. There’s something unmistakably African, or Arabic, rather, about Pantelleria. There are the names, for a start – Kuddia, Khaggiar, Rekhale, Khamma. There are the houses, dammusi, box-like, with a distinctive dome at the centre, painted white, … Continued

Trapani-Pantelleria

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Posted from Address not found. The Paolo Veronese left bang on time, 11pm. She was an old war horse of a ferry, weathered, a bit stained with rust  here and there, but steady as an old donkey. There was the … Continued

Trapani: A Grain of Salt

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Posted from Address not found. Can there be a quieter, more tranquil, sustainable, environmentally sensitive form of farming than the salt pans at Trapani? Sea water flows into the shallow pans through a series of channels. The wind and sun … Continued

Dear Devoted Reader

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Posted from Address not found. Nicoletta, on her way to a short hibernation. It may seem odd to some to take a break from what is, after all, an extended summer holiday, but I’ve retired to the fastnesses of the … Continued

Marettimo – O Captain, my captain

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. Our captain was Salvatore. There were 9 of us on his fishing boat, that had been slightly remodelled for the purposes of water tourism, a young couple, a middle-aged couple, two pairs of middle-aged women and … Continued

A Pinch of Salt

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Posted from Favignana, Sicily, Italy. Sotto Sale is a restaurant with ambitions, not least in price. At 81 euros for dinner for one, it was comfortably the most expensive meal I’ve had on this leg of the great odyssey. And … Continued

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