Capo d’Orlando. End of the Season

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Posted from Address not found. There was a melancholy sweetness about Capo d’Orlando. When I’d last passed through the town in July it had been pulsating with people who had all the raw energy of holiday-making. The beaches had sprouted … Continued

Nebrodi: On the road again

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It was time to move again. Nicoletta and I glided out of Bronte, down across fields of pumice, the skirts of Etna, towards Randazzo, ‘City of Wine’, and then climbed the hills beyond. We headed into the Nebrodi, an area … Continued

Taormina. Theatre and Meta-Theatre

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I hadn’t meant to go, initially. But then I thought, Why not? The Teatro Antico at Taormina. A performance of La Boheme. A warm summer’s night. What else have you got to that’s half as interesting? Don’t be so stupid. … Continued

Bronte: Castello Nelson

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Horatio Nelson, scourge of the French, hero of the nation, Duke of Bronte, pistachio farmer. Ok, I exaggerate a little. Nelson had been awarded the title of the Duke of Bronte, the house, land and the vassalage of the peasants … Continued

Agira: Viviana, La Bella Agirana

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Posted from Address not found. It had been a turbulent day. When I arrived at Caltanissetta, I discovered that the note-book covering the last six weeks of travel had fallen from my back pocket somewhere between Canicatti and Caltanissetta. This … Continued

Porto Empedocle: La Rustichella

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Posted from Porto Empedocle, Sicily, Italy. When I got back from Lampedusa, I made a final visit to Porto Empedocle before heading for Caltanissetta. I may have been a bit intemperate about Porto Empedocle in a past blog. I don’t … Continued

Lampedusa: Refuge

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Posted from Lampedusa, Sicily, Italy. Said the banner outside the school library on Lampedusa. I first saw them at night in Porto Empedocle, disembarking from the ferry that runs every day between the port and Lampedusa, a column of black … Continued

Lampedusa: Pit Stops

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Posted from Address not found. Unlikely as it may sound, Lampedusa has something of a gastronomic track record. The Romans rated the garum, that pungent, potent, fishy HP sauce of the Roman world, very highly. Fishing is the other side … Continued

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