Marettimo – O Captain, my captain

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. Our captain was Salvatore. There were 9 of us on his fishing boat, that had been slightly remodelled for the purposes of water tourism, a young couple, a middle-aged couple, two pairs of middle-aged women and … Continued

A Pinch of Salt

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Posted from Favignana, Sicily, Italy. Sotto Sale is a restaurant with ambitions, not least in price. At 81 euros for dinner for one, it was comfortably the most expensive meal I’ve had on this leg of the great odyssey. And … Continued

Ustica – Early morning swim

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. Donkeys greet the dawn. Some time later, 7am, just after, I rise and sneak off down the path that leads to the road that leads to a track that leads to the steps that lead to … Continued

Favignana – Fishy Business

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Posted from Favignana, Sicily, Italy. They seem to have been a jolly lot, the Florio family. Here they are lounging around their palatial mansion on Favignana, looking cheerful and rich. Here one Florio is caught ruffling the hair of another. … Continued

Ustica – Bottled Sunshine

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. A very long time ago my mother used to buy very special dried apricots at Christmas. I think they came from Australia. They were enormous, at least, if not three times larger than any other dried … Continued

Spaghetti con ricci

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Posted from Sicily, Italy. It was worth coming to Ustica for this dish alone. Voluptuous, rank, rich. Slippery, oily, creamy velvet. Intensely fishy and vegetal, rock pool, iodine and decaying seaweed. The flavour is like a fog. It insinuates its … Continued