Il Bosco di Pantaleo

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Posted from Sardinia, Italy. I walked in the dark green woods of Pantaleo, among wild olive, Aleppo pine and cork trees. Tiny white star bursts of myrtle and strawberry pink and cream oleander were in flower. Euphorbia, broom and iris … Continued

The Timeless Lunch

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I arrived hot and sweaty from the ride from Paulilatino at 12 noon. Ruffa pushed ‘una Birretta’, a glass of very cold Sardinian Ichnusa beer misted with condensation into my hand. It evaporated in my throat. There were three hosts, … Continued

The Sage of Bra (4)

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You may not have time to register everything you pass on your way from Paulilatino to Santadi. Not many people know about Sardinian rice production around the city of Oristano. Not an ancient throwback. Rice cultivation was introduced here in … Continued

The Case for Casizolu

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Posted from Santu Lussurgiu, Sardinia, Italy. ‘Making the cheese is the easy part,’ said Peppino Sanna. Peppino’s silvery beard and hair are shot with black. He has a broad forehead like one of his cattle, and dark, smiling eyes. ‘When … Continued

By the way

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Posted from San Leonardo, Sardinia, Italy. There were plates: of tiny rolls of crisp pancetta, with crunchy fried mushrooms; a plate of chunks of funghi porcini slippery in oil, with a whisper of vinegar and slivers of bitter radicchio; a … Continued

Knife Edge

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‘This is the one a contadino uses every day, for killing animals, sheep, goats, for cutting and chopping, too. It’s a general purpose knife, says Vittorio Mura. Vittorio Mura makes knives, traditional Sardinian knives. He made them all his life. … Continued

The Spanish Disease

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Posted from Alghero, Sardinia, Italy. Welcome to Alghero Old Town, Westfield-On-The-Med, where Shopportunity Knocks. It’s romantic. It’s beautiful. It’s got walls, bastions and the sea. It’s got winding streets with Spanish names wind. It’s got cobbles. It’s got tasteful buildings … Continued

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